BAF Bound

For better or worse, and mostly it's worse, I've spent entirely too much time on BAF, coming or going from various conferences, consultations, and ceremonies.

To be fair, BAF it is not without charms, like the 24 hour movie theater that has excellent popcorn, and even got in a shipment of Girl Scout cookies this week. I also don't object to the Pizza Hut (though it's a tad pricey) or to the (free) sausage egg mcmuffin, which is a far better way to start the day than rice and kimchi.

Mostly, it's the congestion and dust that bother me, so I set out in search of the scenic side of BAF (and some exercise, since I just can't bring myself to workout with people who count there pushups and pullups in triple digits...).

Here's what I found: 

BAF Panorama

This is my favorite picture because it has just about everything that defines BAF for me, dust, helicopters, T walls (the big concrete barriers), constant construction work, the soviet legacy (mines), and the stunning backdrop of the snowcapped mountains.

This is part of the infamous burn pits on Bagram

BAF Scenery

The Neighbors

Old School Bunkers (possibly from Soviet era)

reminded me a bit of Normandy

A Beautiful Day in the Neighborhood

Spring is a really beautiful season here, warm days, cool nights, snowcaps in the distance.

Accordingly - we decided to go for a stroll around the neighborhood.  Luckily, my work provided the excuse, which was a visit to a USAID funded teacher training center, which just happens to be on the property adjacent to our compound.

It was great to see money going to a solid project that is coming together literally on my doorstep, with no meaningful guidance or involvement from me - as our Afghan contractors are doing a great job, and are overseen by Afghan employees at the Embassy, who check in on it without the need for MRAPs and body armor and all that jazz.

Of course, it can be fun to take field trips, despite the excessive chaperoning by a dozen odd armed guards, but that's the next post.

Our Front Gate

(note the new trees added on Arbor Day)

View From the Neighbors

Our Street/Donkey Path

View From Above

 

 

Fighting!!! (no not that kind)

My faithful readers may recall my description of a Korean practice that I first found odd, but (in the way of cultural adaptation) I now find unique and endearing.

Some Practice Fighting in the Backyard

"Fighting" is a chant that apparently wormed its way into korean culture due to the popularity of boxing - aka fighting.  It crops up in different settings, the first of being a kind of pre-game and post-game huddle. It works like a football team, you form a circle, everybody puts their hand into the middle but instead of saying  "1, 2, 3  Go Team!!!" you chant "han, dool, set Fighting!" - though it sometimes sounds more like "Oy Tay!" to a western ear.  The other difference is that you might "huddle" before (and after) an aerobics class, a trip, or other group activity. It's a nice cultural bridge since most of us at least know to put your hand in the circle and shout as you raise it.
The other usage is during picture taking. After taking a more somber picture, the Koreans from the rotation" had been in the habit of taking a "Fighting" picture. Like with our "say cheese" ritual, the photographer counts to three and then the crowd shouts "Fighting".  The twist is that you hold out your clenched right fist for emphasis.

Parwan Youth Soccer Team

(who recently beat their hosts in a rematch)

While I don't want to take full credit, I beleive that my colleagues may have felt that the tradition was not in keeping with their rather serious demeanor, and it declined sharply. However, after I seized an opportunity to request a "Fighting!" picture with the Director, and successfully planted the idea during a few more photoshoots by brandishing a fist and/or shouting "Fighting!" the tradition has sprung back to life, embraced by the Police cadets, students and frequent guests, who have also been won over by the fact that if you do it in isolation, you feel like, and basically are, a goof.  However, if everybody buys into the idea, you get great smiles and an spontaneous injection of team spirit.

In fact, the Afghan security forces have their own charming and sobering tradition in the same line. As they are accepting a diploma or recognition they shake the hand of the commanding officer and turn their head to shout "Alive" - they then face the assembled crowd, raise the certificate above their head and belt out something patriotic. They have poetic license, but most settle on "My Life for Afghanistan". While I hope that few or none of these young men will have to lay down their lives, I can't help but be encouraged by thier willingness to do so.

Afghan Police Graduates - Ready to Fight

"Fighting!" season, here we come.

Birthday Celebration - Afghanistan Style

Holidays and Birthdays are not generally much fun to celebrate far from home and away from family.

With the obligatory (and sincere) caveat that I would have preferred to celebrate with loved ones, I happened across a pretty awesome way to celebrate.

My Birthday "Candle"

 

 A Classic Party Favor - ye olde Flash Bang

(this flavor of grenade doesn't have shrapnel, but the flash and bang will stun you, and give the good guys a chance to swoop in, particularly if you are indoors)

Another Favorite - Playdoh

(of course my grumpy guy here is not made with your average modeling clay)

The Obligatory Game of Hide and Go Seek

(turns out camoflague really works...)

Definitely a Birthday Party to Remember (but maybe not repeat)

I'd say more, but would just ruin it. So I'll just say a big thanks to my party organizers and guests for an unforgettable day!!!